But Noma, which held the top spot in 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2014, ended up this year in the No. 2 spot. That’s because having moved, been redesigned, reconceived and reopened last year, Noma 2.0 was considered to be a “new” restaurant, the organization said. (Eleven Madison Park, in New York, is not on this year’s list because it won the top rating in 2017.)
Most of the restaurants among the top 10 are repeats from last year, though Geranium, perched above a soccer stadium on the edge of Copenhagen, came in at No. 5, up from No. 19 last year.
The highest-ranking American restaurant this year is Cosme, in New York, at No. 23, up from No. 25 last year. Its chef and co-owner, Daniela Soto-Innes, was named best female chef this year. Pujol, the Mexico City restaurant owned by the chef Enrique Olvera, the other partner in Cosme, was No. 12.
Blue Hill at Stone Barns, in Pocantico Hills, N.Y., which was No. 12 last year, dropped to No. 28. Atelier Crenn, in San Francisco, was No. 35, marking the first time its chef, Dominique Crenn, has reached the top 50. Le Bernardin, in New York, sank from No. 26 to 36, Alinea, in Chicago, was No. 37 and Benu, in San Francisco, was No. 47.
Spanish restaurants did extremely well, led by Asador Etxebarri, at No. 3. And a handful of South American restaurants made the top 50, including two in Lima, Peru — Maido and Central — in the top 10. The list includes places with a decidedly casual ambience, like Septime in Paris, at No. 15, just ahead of the hyper-elegant Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée at No. 16.